Building a Thin Wall Cab, Page 2
Now it is time to bring out the blocks! The squaring blocks. I assemble the walls in two
assemblies first. The front wall and left side wall. The rear wall and right side wall. This way I
do not have to deal with the door side when it is time to assemble the two halves.
Using my 1-2-3 blocks, I place the front wall and left side together and hold them in place with
another set of blocks. I put a small bead of glue at the top edge and another small bead at the
bottom. This is just to tack the sides together. I then remove the sides from the blocks and run
a bead of glue down the inside where the two parts mate. I lightly squeeze the parts together
because I like to ooze a little plastic out the joint. I then return the sides to the squaring blocks
and set them up until the glue dries and the joint is solid.
Remember when I said to remove the plastic pimples on the inside of the front and rear wall. I
do this so the walls will set flat against the blocks.
After the two halves dry, I then finish the assembly. Once again I use some small squaring
blocks that I made. I run a bead of glue on the inside joint and squeeze the joint to ooze plastic
out and then use the blocks to square the sides. I do one corner, let it set up and then do the
other corner.
The main part of the cab is now done. I let that sit for a while and it is ready to use.
There are many methodologies for the steps to finishing the cab. I do not put the cab roof on
until the model is done and ready for weathering. I like to build the cab interior. Also, I do not
put the number boards on until it is time to weather the model. So for me the cab is done for
now. I will attach it to the sub base and nose kit or if I am only using the cab, I can attach it to
the model.
The next few photos are just to show you how nicely the cab roof fits in place. It is not glued of
course, but it fits pretty nicely. You can see that the cab face bows outward a bit. That is
because this is a VERY old kit. Probably from the very first batch produced. It has been in
storage for a long time and is a second hand kit which was traded to me for some other stuff
so who knows what it was subjected to. But once the cab is glued in place, it all gets lined up
and looks perfect.
Hope this article was helpful. Now if you want to see how to build a READING SD45 or PSRL GP38 cab, CLICK HERE
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