09/04/2005
| BUILDING HOOD SIDES WITH CANNON & CO. PARTS |
Before I start this article, I want to make it clear that my method for building these hood sides
are by no means not the only way to do this. This is just my methodology for building the sides
and what I found worked best for me with the tools and resources I have. I would like this to
just be a guide. Please feel free to adjust it to your needs. Also before I start I want to thank
Gordon Cannon for all the excellent parts he has produced over the years that allow us to
build these models.
The sides you see here are for my EJ&E SD38-2 project. The concepts will apply to any other
EMD model using Cannon & Co. parts. This article is mainly aimed at the modelers that are a
little reluctant to try their hands at scratch building a model. I want to show you how simple it
can be if you just take your time and develop a method that works for you.
The tools I use are the following:
- Knives. It is very important to use very sharp blades. I change mine often. If a tip breaks,
even the smallest break, replace it. I am very happy with EXCEL blades. Lucky for me, my
father bought me a
couple sets of X-ACTO knives when I was a kid so the
handles are made of a heavier material than what you find
today. The clamping barrel closes nicer as well.
If you can find older sets at flea markets or such, I highly
recommend buying them.
- Steel Scales & Straight Edges. I have many of these and use them not only for measuring,
but also a good hard straight edge. There is one straight edge I do not have that I want to get
for when I build my next project. You can get it through Micro Mark and probably other hobby
supply outlets. The Micro Mark part numbers are 14162 for the 6" long version and 60916
for the 12" long version. This tool looks to have the weight
and size for cutting long strips of styrene sheet. I want to get
it for cutting the hood side backing sheet.
The scales you see to the right have good weight to them.
They have a nice straight edge and will help you produce a
nice clean cut. You do need a longer scale to cut the hood
backing sheet. For that I used a 12" metal scale. I will get the
Micro Mark tool though for future use.
- Sanding Sticks. The sanding sticks I found to be the best are nail files. I found mine at the
local ULTA store. One day I went in with my wife and there was a whole bunch of these things
in various locations around the store. They are very rigid and have a nice flat surface. You
can cut them for different sizes and you can get them in various grits.
After cutting a backing side I used the sticks to slightly clean
up the edges. They also work great for flat sanding. I can tell
you, these sticks are the best and next time my wife needs to
go to ULTA, I am going along to get more.
I am sure you can also get good sanding sticks at your local
grocery store or Walgreens or CVS pharmacy.
- DIal Calipers. I use this tool for just about every
measuring need. I do need to get a new set though, the
points on this one are starting to show signs of wear.
If you do not have calipers and are going to get one, my
suggestion is to get a good set. You do not have to get the
most expensive set, but a good quality set. You want a S.S
set and not a plastic one. Do not get one with blunt jaw tips.
Get one with nice sharp tips.
I have had my calipers now for about 21 years and they have
served me well.
- Squaring Blocks. These I found to be invaluable when setting up the hood sides. They
really help you get the door spacers trued up. The ones with the holes in them are called
1-2-3 blocks. These are precision machined blocks that measure 1" x 2" x 3" hence the name
1-2-3 blocks. The other great thing about these blocks is you can really true up your
adjustable
protractor. The brass blocks I made myself on with my mill. I
made them to help with keeping the bottom edges straight.
You can also use your steel scale rulers for this as well. I like
the brass blocks I made because they are heavy and thicker.
I also use these blocks to sit on top of the sides when I am
done to keep them flat.
You can gt a good set of 1-2-3 blocks from any machinist
supply store. I got mine from ENCO tools at
http://www/use-enco.com
PN: DL630-4010 $10.19 per set of two. (09/04/2005)
- Adjustable Protractor. Not much to say about this tool. I use it to cut the hood backing
sheet to the correct length. What is important though is that the protractor is accurate for the
90 degree angle. That is why I said above that the 1-2-3 blocks come in very handy to true up
the protractor. With the protractor squared up, you know that the hood side will fit nicely up
against the back of the cab with no gaps or run out as well
as the long hood end fitting up squarely.
- The NWSL Chopper. You know, I have had this tool ever since I can remember. I owned the
original one and never used it and then bought the new revised one you see here and never
used it until now. The tool has draw backs when used as is. The straight edge side has to
many gaps that small strip styrene falls down into and the angular cutting pieces that come
with the tool have to much of a rounded edge to them. So as you can see with my setup, I
changed a few things. I use my metal straight edges as strip
guides and an X-ACTO right angle tool as my stop. The ruler
that runs 90 degrees tot he black ruler just helps me push
the smaller strip up against the edge better. The black ruler
runs right up against the blade.
Like I said, I never used this tool until now and I love it! All
those years of it sitting in my drawer has paid off.
The one tool that is not seen here and is really not a tool is my work surface. It is a piece of
1/4" thick plate glass. It cost me all of about $6.00 to have made at a local glass shop. For
years I have heard of modelers using glass as a work surface and never took interest in it. I
thought I would give it a try and I found I should have used it years ago. It is great for having
the flat surface to build on. It is another item I highly recommend you using to build models on.
That is about it for the tools section of this article. I guess it is time to move on to actually
building the sides.
are by no means not the only way to do this. This is just my methodology for building the sides
and what I found worked best for me with the tools and resources I have. I would like this to
just be a guide. Please feel free to adjust it to your needs. Also before I start I want to thank
Gordon Cannon for all the excellent parts he has produced over the years that allow us to
build these models.
The sides you see here are for my EJ&E SD38-2 project. The concepts will apply to any other
EMD model using Cannon & Co. parts. This article is mainly aimed at the modelers that are a
little reluctant to try their hands at scratch building a model. I want to show you how simple it
can be if you just take your time and develop a method that works for you.
The tools I use are the following:
- Knives. It is very important to use very sharp blades. I change mine often. If a tip breaks,
even the smallest break, replace it. I am very happy with EXCEL blades. Lucky for me, my
father bought me a
couple sets of X-ACTO knives when I was a kid so the
handles are made of a heavier material than what you find
today. The clamping barrel closes nicer as well.
If you can find older sets at flea markets or such, I highly
recommend buying them.
- Steel Scales & Straight Edges. I have many of these and use them not only for measuring,
but also a good hard straight edge. There is one straight edge I do not have that I want to get
for when I build my next project. You can get it through Micro Mark and probably other hobby
supply outlets. The Micro Mark part numbers are 14162 for the 6" long version and 60916
for the 12" long version. This tool looks to have the weight
and size for cutting long strips of styrene sheet. I want to get
it for cutting the hood side backing sheet.
The scales you see to the right have good weight to them.
They have a nice straight edge and will help you produce a
nice clean cut. You do need a longer scale to cut the hood
backing sheet. For that I used a 12" metal scale. I will get the
Micro Mark tool though for future use.
- Sanding Sticks. The sanding sticks I found to be the best are nail files. I found mine at the
local ULTA store. One day I went in with my wife and there was a whole bunch of these things
in various locations around the store. They are very rigid and have a nice flat surface. You
can cut them for different sizes and you can get them in various grits.
After cutting a backing side I used the sticks to slightly clean
up the edges. They also work great for flat sanding. I can tell
you, these sticks are the best and next time my wife needs to
go to ULTA, I am going along to get more.
I am sure you can also get good sanding sticks at your local
grocery store or Walgreens or CVS pharmacy.
- DIal Calipers. I use this tool for just about every
measuring need. I do need to get a new set though, the
points on this one are starting to show signs of wear.
If you do not have calipers and are going to get one, my
suggestion is to get a good set. You do not have to get the
most expensive set, but a good quality set. You want a S.S
set and not a plastic one. Do not get one with blunt jaw tips.
Get one with nice sharp tips.
I have had my calipers now for about 21 years and they have
served me well.
- Squaring Blocks. These I found to be invaluable when setting up the hood sides. They
really help you get the door spacers trued up. The ones with the holes in them are called
1-2-3 blocks. These are precision machined blocks that measure 1" x 2" x 3" hence the name
1-2-3 blocks. The other great thing about these blocks is you can really true up your
adjustable
protractor. The brass blocks I made myself on with my mill. I
made them to help with keeping the bottom edges straight.
You can also use your steel scale rulers for this as well. I like
the brass blocks I made because they are heavy and thicker.
I also use these blocks to sit on top of the sides when I am
done to keep them flat.
You can gt a good set of 1-2-3 blocks from any machinist
supply store. I got mine from ENCO tools at
http://www/use-enco.com
PN: DL630-4010 $10.19 per set of two. (09/04/2005)
- Adjustable Protractor. Not much to say about this tool. I use it to cut the hood backing
sheet to the correct length. What is important though is that the protractor is accurate for the
90 degree angle. That is why I said above that the 1-2-3 blocks come in very handy to true up
the protractor. With the protractor squared up, you know that the hood side will fit nicely up
against the back of the cab with no gaps or run out as well
as the long hood end fitting up squarely.
- The NWSL Chopper. You know, I have had this tool ever since I can remember. I owned the
original one and never used it and then bought the new revised one you see here and never
used it until now. The tool has draw backs when used as is. The straight edge side has to
many gaps that small strip styrene falls down into and the angular cutting pieces that come
with the tool have to much of a rounded edge to them. So as you can see with my setup, I
changed a few things. I use my metal straight edges as strip
guides and an X-ACTO right angle tool as my stop. The ruler
that runs 90 degrees tot he black ruler just helps me push
the smaller strip up against the edge better. The black ruler
runs right up against the blade.
Like I said, I never used this tool until now and I love it! All
those years of it sitting in my drawer has paid off.
The one tool that is not seen here and is really not a tool is my work surface. It is a piece of
1/4" thick plate glass. It cost me all of about $6.00 to have made at a local glass shop. For
years I have heard of modelers using glass as a work surface and never took interest in it. I
thought I would give it a try and I found I should have used it years ago. It is great for having
the flat surface to build on. It is another item I highly recommend you using to build models on.
That is about it for the tools section of this article. I guess it is time to move on to actually
building the sides.
